Daniela Ferreira, Correspondent 07.01.19
The 24th edition of FCE Cosmetique took place in São Paulo in May. The event, which ran concurrently with FCE Pharma, provided a showcase for 500 brands to get in front of 16,500 attendees.
Visitors attended lectures on innovation, market trends and product launches, as well as sensorial and demonstrative experiences. The event also housed the Latin American and Iberian Congress of Cosmetic Chemicals (Colamiqc), where one of the most influential economists in Brazil, Ricardo Amorim, spoke about the political and economic panorama in Latin America and Portugal. He pointed out that Brazil has experienced its worst crisis in recent years, but is growing again.
“We are experiencing the fastest technological transformation process that humanity has ever seen,” he observed. “This generates a lot of wealth and opportunity for those who effectively use new technologies to improve their business,” he said. For him, the impact on the cosmetics market is direct. “As incomes grow, more people take care of themselves and spend money on it.”
For the first time, FCE Cosmetique included a German Pavilion, an area dedicated to small and medium companies interested in the Brazilian market, such as Herbacin, Jean D’Arcel Cosmetique and Netzsch.
“Germany is very strong in cosmetics production and the Brazilian market is one of the most important in the world. So, this search for the expansion in Brazil is natural,” explained Ricardo Castanho, the director of internationalization.
FCE included a wide-ranging education program, which gave attendees new ideas about innovations, technological challenges and market trends. Beautystreams, a global beauty consultancy, presented the Beauty Movements Influencing Spring/Summer 2020 Forecast. A lecture by Fernanda Pigatto, international marketing director at Beautystreams, highlighted nine trends impacting the beauty industry:
- EyeFocus—the new makeup and skin care emphasis;
- Hybridification—blurring the lines between makeup, hair care and skin care;
- The Clean Movement—naturalness meets safety;
- Light & Fluid—refreshing and barely-there textures;
- Mental Cosmetics—mood-enhancing, anti-anxiety benefits;
- Good Vibrations—wave-emitting devices that reinforce active ingredients;
- Effect Switching—magical transformations with visual impact;
- Crimping—new crimping options with devices and stylers; and
- High on Hormones—adapting skin care to puberty, pregnancy and menopause.
“The Future of Fragrance” detailed the environmental issues impacting the segment and consumer demand for greater transparency. Lauren Goodsitt, global beauty and personal care analyst at Mintel, explained that 32% of Brazilians aged 16-24 would be interested in custom-blended fragrance, and 21% of Brazilian women aged 45-54, who use fragrance, would like to try perfumes in different formats, such as powder and crayon.
Goodsitt also said that due to high import taxes, Brazil should focus more on local ingredients and convey their importance to the consumer. She also pointed out that brands can teach important lessons on sustainability and zero waste.
A common problem for fragrance industry executives is that many consumers say they sensitive to some chemicals even though they are not. To overcome this obstacle, transparencey is critical.
“You need to rethink how the product will be presented. Nowadays customers really do an in-depth research on what they are using” she added.
From the supply-side, Cramer, a Chilean flavor and fragrance company that has been in the Latin American market for 80 years, presented Driscent, an exclusive, 100% biodegradable, fragrance microencapsulation technology. According to Michel Ulloa, commercial director, although this technology can be applied in fragrances of diverse beauty and personal care categories, it was launched in hair products, as Brazil is one of the largest hair care market in the world. One of its main advantages is the bloom effect as the fragrance is protected inside the microcapsule and breaks when it comes in contact with water, releasing an explosion of scent and promoting a sensory experience during the bath. Vollmens, a Brazilian fragrance supplier, is 15 years old and still growing like a startup; sales reportedly rose 56% last year. That’s because the company is investing in its image, communication and quality, explained Patricia Shimojo, marketing manager.
“Our goal is to develop the domestic market,” she explained
Clean, Pure and Simple
Brenntag Brasil presented several concepts developed around sustainability and minimalism. For example, Etioliftine (Inabata) is an anti-aging ingredient based on goji, whose roots and barks are rich in hydrocinnamic acid, a powerful antioxidant. Fermentoil Hair Complex (Lip Beyond Biotechnology) is a blend of fermented oils (sunflower, green tea, camellia, argan, almonds) capable of delivering a sensory formulation, a light texture and multiple benefits, such as restoration, frizz and oil reduction, hydration and strength.
Brenntag also presented the versatile and multi-benefit concept in hair care beauty routine with Glypure from Chemours. This glycolic acid has applications in daily use hair care products such as shampoos and conditioners.
“Glycolic acid is a small molecule, it penetrates easily allowing a greater softness, protection and a healthier appearance to the hair, beyond promoting the increase of mechanical and thermal resistance to the strands. It has other benefits, such as scalp hydration, leaving it healthier with less peeling” explained Gustavo Ramalho, technical representative at Chemours.
More on Hair
Lubrizol relaunched Fixate with different positioning. It consists of a thermal activated hair treatment for curly hair without formaldehyde or glyoxylic acid, which is said to reduce frizz and curls control. In addition, it is easy to apply, lasts up to 20 washes, does not need high temperatures and does not have an odor.
Symrise introduced SymHair conditioner base, a conditioning system that consists of a ready-to-use conditioning agent, that is easy to handle and simple to use. It is based on a combination of cationic agents and wheat bran oil extract that is rich in fatty acids. As a result, it imparts a high level of moisturizing, conditioning, smoothness, shine and volume control.
Cultures, Trends and Textures
Consumers continue to build connections, share cultures and clamor for NPD that is aligned with issues such as fair trade, sustainability and smart technology. Supported by this concept, Chemyunion presented a menu of representative formulas from the five continents:
- Asia—rituals, small indulgences, minimalist products and “zero waste” concept boost the consumption of cosmetic in this continent. It inspires formulas such as whitening facial masks in a stick, shampoo and facial cleaning slimes.
- Africa—culturally, Africans prefer cosmetic ingredients from their region because they believe in their traditional uses. One highlighted material is shea butter applied in an exclusive bar oil formula for massage with promises perfect spreadability, without the sticky appearance or stains. It inspired a shea hair mask and crambe oil with avocado, which can be used as pre-shampoo or as post-shampoo intensive treatment.
- Europe—the Mediterranean diet, based on traditions from Greece, Italy, Spain and Portugal, features vegetables and olive oil. The inspiration came through formulations based on the concept of mixology (balm and moisturizing body oil, which when mixed become a moisturizing body mist).
- Americas—pressure on the environment and climate change have convinced consumers to seek more natural cosmetics, and it is common to find a relationship between cooking and cosmetics, such as gourmet beauty concepts.
- Australia—inspiration from surfing with cosmetic products with UV protection, light sensory and vegetal origin.
New Ideas from Biocelltis
Biocelltis, a biotech startup focused on the research, development and production of tissue engineering medical platforms, presented two launches. Rejuventis is an organic, natural and vegan hydrogel sheet masks for face, lips and eyelids. Each mask is said to promote deep skin hydration through ideal bioactive molecules for dermal tissue regeneration. Masks contain hydrogel-shaped biomaterials composed of >99% ultra-pure water and polymeric nanofibers. It is preservative-free, animal-free and cruelty-free; as well as biodegradable, organic, natural and vegan. BioCellTis used FCE Cosmetique to introduce CellFate-RHE, an in vitro Rebuilt Human Skin. It’s no coincidence that this year, the National Council for Control of Animal Experimentation (CONCEA) made it mandatory to implement 17 alternative methods to the use of animals in research. The move obliges cosmetics manufacturers and pharmaceutical laboratories to cease the use of animals in their efficacy and safety tests.
CellFate-RHE is a human epidermis reconstructed in vitro from human cells, more specifically keratinocytes, from plastic surgery. Human cells are cultured on the company’s proprietary biomaterial, and the 3D CellFate forms a human skin-like epidermis that is responsive to stimuli such as solar radiation, irritation, oxidative stress and aging. It is expected to be available next year.